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Dimenstions of wooden frames of surviving Viking tents with a standardised tent.
By Andrea Willett (Geelong, Australia)
As of 30th Jan 1997 these are the correct measurements to the best of my knowledge.
Article expanded 22nd June 2002

Oseberg - Large Tent  c.800-835
Made of European Ash Fraxinus exelsior. Heads carved on both sides & painted brown on a greyish-white ground. Inside Area  5.30m long x 4.50m wide x 3.50m high 
Ridge Pole (329S)  5.25m long x 8.7cm wide x 6.5cm thick, tenons ?cm long. 
Side Ground Pole (313C)  5.70m long x 8.6cm (Ctr) to 7cm wide (End) x 3cm thick, tenon 16cm, other broken. 
Side Ground Pole (315E)  5.70m long x 6.9cm x 6.9cm, tenons 32 and 44cm long. 
Transom (311A)  4.80m long x 18cm wide x 3cm thick, tenon holes 15cm from each end. 
Transom (330T)  4.80m long x 15-16cm wide x 3cm thick, tenon holes 15cm from each end. 
Sheer Leg Side Pole (321K & 347)  4.80m long x 12-14cm wide x 3cm thick, tenon holes are 15cm from lower end and ?cm from upper end. 
Sheer Leg Side Pole (323M & 341)  4.70m long x 18cm wide x 3cm thick, tenon holes are 15cm from lower end and ?cm from upper end. 
Sheer Leg Side Pole (314D & 348)  4.80m long x 18cm wide x 3cm thick, tenon holes are 15cm from lower end and 52-53cm from upper end. 
Sheer Leg Side Pole (327Q & 346)  4.70m long x 18cm wide x 3cm thick, tenon holes are 15cm from lower end and 51cm from upper end. 

Tenon holes in transoms and SLSP rather rough, ca. 5-5.6cm dia.
Plug holes in tenons ca. 2cm dia and "placed so that the tenon is just outside the assembled parts".

Oseberg - Small Tent  c.800-835
Made of European Ash Fraxinus exelsior. Heads carved on both sides and painted yellow & black. Inside Area     
Ridge Pole (312B)  5.05m long x 6.4cm dia (Ctr) to 6.1cm dia (End), tenons ?cm long. 
Side Ground Pole (320I)  5.70m long x 6.0 to 6.3cm dia, tenons 20cm long. 
Side Ground Pole (328R)  5.60m long x 8.3cm dia ? tenons 15cm long. 
Transom (322L)  4.50m long x 11cm wide x 3cm thick, tenon holes 15cm from each end. 
Transom (324N)  4.50m long x 13cm wide x 3cm thick, tenon holes 15cm from each end. 
Sheer Leg Side Pole (326P & 343)  4.10m long x 19cm wide x 2.5-3cm thick, tenon holes are 20cm from lower end and 40cm from upper end. 
Sheer Leg Side Pole (318G & 342)  4.10m long x 18cm wide x 2.5-3cm thick, tenon holes are 20cm from lower end and ?cm from upper end. 
Sheer Leg Side Pole (325D & 344)  4.10m long x 18cm wide x 2.5-3cm thick, tenon holes are 20cm from lower end and 36cm from upper end 
Sheer Leg Side Pole (319H & 345)  4.10m long x 18cm wide x 2.5-3cm thick, tenon holes are 20cm from lower end and 34cm from upper end. 
Tenon holes in transoms and SLSP rather rough, ca. 5-5.6cm dia.
Plug holes in tenons ca. 2cm dia and "placed so that the tenon is just outside the assembled parts".

Gokstad Tent  c.850-900
Made of Oak Quercus robur. Heads carved on both sides and painted yellow & black.
Sheer Leg Side Poles  Approx. 3.56m long x 29-30cm wide(head) to 16cm wide(foot) x 1.8-2cm thick tenon holes ?cm from lower end and ?cm from upper end animal head carving is 46cm from tip of ear to end of nose Side Ground Poles rested in notches. "Diameter of Ridge Pole hole and notches ca. 6cm." 
The following drawings are added without permission of the authors of the original books from which they were taken.

Standardized Tent - Wooden Frame
Inside Area  3.50m long x 3.35m wide x 2.80m high. 
2 Side Ground Poles  3.80m long x 47mm dia (hardwood dowel). 
Tenons  15cm long x 34mm dia and a close fit for tenon holes. 
Ridge Pole  3.80m long x 6.5cm wide x 4cm thick hardwood. 
2 Transoms  3.60m long x 12cm wide x 3cm thick hardwood. 
Tenons  15cm long x 34mm dia and a close fit for tenon holes. 
Tenon holes  34mm dia and centred 10cm from each end. 
4 Sheer Leg Side Poles  3.60m long x 12cm wide x 3cm thick hardwood, or 3.60m long x 30cm wide (head) to 16cm wide (foot) x 3cm thick hardwood. 

I used kiln-dried hardwood for my frame. It is protected by a polish made of beeswax, pure/vegetable (not mineral) turpentine and linseed oil. Paint the heads before you polish.
Tenon holes 34mm dia, centred 10cm from lower end and 30cm from upper end.
Plug holes in tenons ca. 1.2cm dia and "placed so that the tenon is just outside the assembled parts".
The edges of the Ridge Pole are routered over to a 20mm radius.
Lower inside corner of side poles on one side (not end) are quarter round, on the other side still square.

Tent Cloth.
Requires 24m of 1.90m wide pre-shrunk canvas.

       
Pre-prepare your ties & loops. You will need 14 ties made from 2.25" x 36" strips, 20 loops made from 2.25" x 6" strips, 4 loops made from 1.5" x 6" strips, 2 handles made from 2.25" x 18" strips, 4 ties made from 1.5" x 18" strips and 16 ties made from 1.5" x 24" strips in addition to the ties for the centre of the doors of which I used a total of 72 ties made from 1.5" x 24" strips as I had them 6" apart. This may have been excessive but I wouldn't space them further than 12" apart.

Roof: Take two pieces of canvas 7.20m long. Cut 20 cm off one selvedge edge of one piece. Sew the two large pieces together along one long edge using a flat seam as in Diagram A to give you a width of 3.55m. Fold the canvas in a 4" deep "S" shape between 8" and 12" from the bottom edge to make a reinforcement to which you can sew the ties & loops (Diagram B). Make sure that the fold points down on the outside. Fold the short edges twice and sew a narrow hem. Make 14 wide, sewn and folded ties from 2.25" x 36" strips of canvas and 14 matching pieces 6" long for peg loops. Sew the centre of them firmly to the reinforcing fold, seven per side, evenly spaced with the ends of the loops on either side. Sew a thin loop to each corner of the outside of the tent on the reinforcing fold.

Ends: Take two pieces of canvas 3.17m long by 1.9m wide. Mark fold lines along the long sides 5/8" & 3" in from the edge, and along the ends 1" and 5" in from the edge. Cut each of the pieces in half diagonally as per the corner cutting diagram. The pieces must be cut on different diagonals so that you have a left and right hand door for each end of your tent. Fold top and small side edges of the triangles twice and sew a narrow hem. Fold the upright side edge inward twice on the fold lines and sew down. Do the same for the lower edge. Sew 24" thin ties to the upright edge so that in cross-section it looks like Diagram E. Sew a wide loop to the corner of the flap so that its lower edge is at where the folds meet as in Diagram D. The first pair 2' from the lower corner of the roof the second pair 4". Beginning at the top edge of the reinforcing fold sew the doors to the roof with a 1" seam same as in Diagram A. Take a diamond shaped reinforcing piece, fold over the raw edge of the roof canvas between door flaps and sew down. Take the remaining two wide loops and sew onto the reinforcing piece facing outwards so that they are just back from the edge of the roof. Finis!

My tent is a 2/3 copy of the larger Oseberg tent. I have changed the heads however as the period I was reenacting was later than that of the original tents and decorative styles are VERY dateable. I was portraying a Viking from Dublin around the year 999 so I have used the picture of a crook unearthed in Dublin as the basis for the heads on my tent. Unless you wish to portray a Viking from the same place and period as the original tents I would suggest you do something similar.

Erecting & Bracing the Tent.
When erecting the tent have the front and back openings tied up and lay the tent cloth on its side with both sides together. Slide the ridgepole into place, lay the rest of the frame on the ground in approximate position. Make sure that the side poles on one side have rounded corners and the other side pointed. Also that the poles on one side will be towards the front and the other towards the back when slid onto the ridgepole. If both poles on one side are on the outside it will put additional pressure on the ridgepole tenons when the tent is erected.

Slide the side poles into place on the tenons. Slide the transoms onto the tenons on the side where the ridgepoles have pointed corners. This will also be the side towards which the tent cloth has been laid. Peg all tenons to prevent poles from sliding off. Tie the tent cloth to the side ground pole on one side. Take your two bracing ropes and slide them through the loops on the tent cloth at each end of the ridge so that the loop is in the centre of the rope. Drape the ropes around the animal heads on the side poles so that half a rope lays on either side.

At this point if you have made a decent sized tent you will need helpers as it takes four or five people to raise the bloody thing. Have the first two helpers stand on the pointed corners to dig the points into the ground while the other side is raised. Have the tallest two people stand slightly to the other side of the heads and lift the side poles on the other side. The rounded corners on this side will allow it to slide easily. When they have them high enough unpeg the tenons on the raised side, slide on the transoms & re-peg. The rest only needs one person.

Tie the tent cloth down on the remaining side. Attach a thin meter long rope to the loops near the lower corners of the cloth and tie these off to the nearest tenons. This will prevent wind from blowing the cloth along the lower side poles. Take the ends of the ropes you tied to the ridge corners and cross them in front of each end. Take each free rope end and drape it back diagonally across each tent side to loop it around the opposing lower tenon. Bring each rope back along itself and tie it in a "truckies hitch" about 1.5m along. When you have done all four ends tighten alternately in end pairs until the ropes are taunt, the frame is square (no diagonal creases on the cloth sides) and the frame does not rock backwards and forwards when pushed. If you were expecting a REALLY strong wind you could peg down the side ground poles or transoms (NOT the tenons) but I've never needed to.

With a few minor adjustments your tent will double for almost any European period. The frame is the datable bit. Without it the tent is useable from Dark Ages to last century. Sew loops next to the ties at the sides. Have someone forge you some tent pegs, mine are in 10mm square bar stock. A 45cm one for each corner and the ends of the 15m ropes which then provide bracing and tensioning with 'truckies hitches' from the ridge diagonally out the front in line with the sides. Additional 30cm ones for the sides and centre front/back. Make a three part frame of saplings (ridge, front and back poles), lash them together and you're set.

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Bibliography.
Brogger A.W., H. Falk & H. Schetelig, Osebergfundet I, Christiania, 1917
Brogger A.W., & H. Schetelig, Osebergfundet II, Christiania, 1927
Christensen Arne Emil, Personal Correspondence, 07 Nov 96, 06 Dec 96, 16 Jan 97, 01 Jul 02 and 16 Jul 02, Oslo
Lang James T., Viking-Age Decorated Wood A Study of its Ornament and Style, 1988, Dublin
Nicolaysen N., The Viking Ship discovered at Gokstad in Norway, 1882, Christiania